Aron and I have made several styles of HHO hydrogen generators. The easiest one to build was the wrapped cylindrical model. It is composed of 2 stainless steel 16 gauge plates, rolled into a cylinder. We cut a strip part way on each one, then bend it up to use for a connector lead. This means we can build a cell with no internal connections, since our electrical lead extends out of the casing. In this video clip, we show our home made roller, our finished anodes and a quick test in pre-treated tap water to make sure everything is working. The water was used before with a different generator, but has no electrolytes or caustic additives. Adding electrolyte to the solution would increase production of this cell drastically, but we always test without it first. To see a test of a cell very similar to this, look at HHO Hydrogen Fuel Cell #4 Demo.
You can find a few designs similar to this one out there, and it has been the main design for several hho kits for sale online. These anodes will fit inside a 3″ PVC housing, but would require a bubbler tank with recirculating capabilities to avoid overheating. We have yet to find a design which makes large quantities of HHO without heating up.
One idea we tossed around was to build a unit like this, hook it up with a solar panel and let it run every day to see what effect such long term usage would have on it. We were going to use solar energy so it wouldn’t run up the power bill, but we haven’t gotten around to that one yet.
June 4th, 2008 at 1:04 am
Hey great site! What is the mesh made of that you are putting between your stainless steel sheets…thanks in advance!
Tim Says:June 4th, 2008 at 11:41 am
Hi Gary,
Gary Bruner Says:We are using a high density polyethylene mesh that is made for outdoor use.
June 4th, 2008 at 11:15 pm
Success……..sort of. I wasnt able to get a nice tight role like you guys did so that may have hurt my gas output. Now on to phase two…whats phase two?
Tim Says:June 5th, 2008 at 4:13 am
Great to hear you have your cell nearly ready. Check to make sure all metal surfaces have clearance. Phase 2 is to test it in an open topped container full of water in a well ventilated area with no source of ignition. When you first hook it up, watch for a sudden large power draw or sparks, which would signify the anodes touching. If this happens, unhook it and go over it again. Then, on to phase 3 : build your housing.
David Says:June 6th, 2008 at 12:14 am
Hi! I am new to HHO production. What causes the reaction? I realize you have electricity in the water, but is it the closeness of the metal (without touching) that is the goal? How close is too close?
Aron Says:Thanks!
June 6th, 2008 at 3:48 pm
Hi David.
In short the electricity passing through the water separates hydrogen and oxygen atoms, the closer the plates the easier the electricity can travel from one electrode to the other. However the amperage the cell will draw will go higher. If you don’t plan on using electrolytes 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch will work great. If you want to use electrolytes try 3/16 to 1/4 inch. If the gaps are to close your cell will make lots of gas but it will also boil the water in a short time.
JP Says:June 10th, 2008 at 2:30 am
Gentlemen,
Aron Says:I have seen several different types of anodes,ie: plates, rods or wrapped. What do you think is the most efficient, putting aside the cost of making the anode? I want to build a HHO generator for my car and any advise you would be willing to share would be very helpful.
June 10th, 2008 at 4:38 am
Hello Jp. That is a tough question to answer. If you compare amps to gas volume then we had the best results with tubes but only if the outside or larger tube was positive. Other peoples results may differ because of all the variables involved in size, spacing and even housing materails can change production. Plates and wrapped electrodes are more space efficient.
JP Says:June 11th, 2008 at 1:25 pm
When it comes the the type of material used for the casing, is one better then the other? I had been thinking about using a stailess steel tube instead of plexiglass, Could, with the anodes spaced properly from the inner wall, the metal tube casing asct as a neutral and help in the production?
Steve Says:thanx again for all your help. Your page is helping alot of people.
June 11th, 2008 at 7:36 pm
Have you tried to cause separation with a sine wave? ie: the Stanley Meyers patent, the Hydrostar. The benefits would be low current and low temperatures and still good output?
jimmy Says:June 12th, 2008 at 7:52 pm
I have some stainless steel screen wire. How do you think that would work for electrodes?
Bruce & Zack Says:Thanks
Jimmy
June 12th, 2008 at 9:09 pm
Hey, me and my friend Zack have been testing different
Dean Says:types of anodes, and have found that the one producing the largest volume of gas was 3 stainless steel plates (316), spaced 1/4″ apart with rubber grommets seperating them. They are a little over a foot long. They are charged positive negative positive. The amount of gas produced was impressive but the draw of amps was starting to heat the water and plates. We never ran it longer than a few minutes. How would we solve the over heating problem, and the power draw problem w/o killing our wallets. Also, would wrapping the inside of our container (3″ pvc) with a sheet of stainless steel and running a rod through the center create less of a power draw and still produce a substantial amount of hho? Is there a solution to creating a substantial amount without running straight 12v? Any information would be useful.
June 17th, 2008 at 10:02 am
On the heat issue: Try running the water through a heater core. A heater core is basically a small radiator found in all cars. You can get one cheap or even free at a local auto wrecking yard. For a pump just get a cheap garden fountain pump. A Rio 180 worked well for me in the past, but I was using it in a different application. Higher flow will increase cooling, and providing airflow through the radiator fins will increase cooling dramatically. My experience comes from watercooling a computer processor, which puts out around 125watts. Try some tests and let me know how it goes!
Bruce & Zack Says:June 18th, 2008 at 6:37 pm
Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to make seperate
Aron Says:cells with seperate anodes that combine there gas, this
way we don’t have to deal with the heat issue. Because the container endurance is higher with a lower heat reaction inside. Also so we don’t have to use as much power. The cell we have now makes a large amount of gas, but can’t we just have several seperate containers with
their own anode and current? Thanks ahead of time.
June 24th, 2008 at 10:07 pm
Hello Bruce and Zack.
Running small multiple cells works good if you have the room. I run two cells on a f150 with only 11 amps total consumption and can get 32 mpg hiway.
Todd Says:June 28th, 2008 at 8:31 pm
I’ve made both a single cell and a double cell generator and with both models I keep blowing 15A fuses. I tried increasing the wire size from 12gauge to 10, but the fuses blow typically on longer trips >30mi. Do you think that might be heat related or to much current being drawn during production of gas?
Bruce Says:July 9th, 2008 at 1:31 pm
Thanks to Aron I am getting started. My mechanic friend, Tim, wants to use acrylic tube with 4″ ID diameter. does anyone have any experience with using acrylic tube for a hydrogen generator?
Sterling Says:Another question - we are going to use stainless steel pipes. Is ther a calculation for the distance between pipes and the amount of water in the tank?
thanks
Bruce
July 9th, 2008 at 9:50 pm
Hello! I have a question regarding your setup here. Would it be possible to use shim stock coil (http://www.maudlinproducts.com/1275.xml?cat=1165) instead of traditional SS sheets and then bending them? This would take a lot of the bending hassle away because they are easy to bend if you need to, as well as cheaper in price. And one other thing, does the material of the scuba tank mesh really matter? Thanks a ton, I’m a huge fan of this website!
Aron Says:July 9th, 2008 at 10:18 pm
Hi Sterling. Sure you could use shim stock but is it really cheaper. Check out our store, the mini is 2 sheets of 20 guage 2×12 wrapped. Check your local hardware store for a mesh to cover the gutters on your house most is made of hd poly ethylene. Look for mesh that is cross woven so the hho can have more gaps to escape through. I’ve never been scuba diving.
TinkererPutterer Says:August 30th, 2008 at 1:52 am
Keep up the good work guys. I’ve been soaking up info from a lot of videos. Putting together everything I have learned so far I’ll share this with you: Looks like we need a flash-back killer so the whole thing doesn’t blow up. There was a good demo of a simple capped PVC pipe filled with Ocean City beach sand (no thing stuff, Ocean City, Maryland, local to the person in the video) and the HHO passed through it. It was ignited at one end but never flashed on through the sand. Good. One problem solved. Next we need to stop any bubbled water from being pushed up and out along with the gas. I saw a simple condensation catcher (bottle-type) like those used on commercial air compressors did the trick. Good that’s two problems solved. Next is how to produce maximum HHO output with minimum amperage. The thing that you are all working on. What will produce the most HHO? A thin wrap of SS foil with SS washers on a bolt inside? A spiral of wire? Plates arranged PNPNPN? P—-N—-P (positive, multiple unconnected plates, negative, multiple unconnected plates, positive)? I like the idea of multiple small cells but real research needs to be put into this. It means the difference between getting better gas mileage and no longer needing gasoline at all. Pick some brains at college chemistry labs and report your findings. We got to the moon almost 40 years ago we can find the right brains to figure this thing out. I saw a video that said high frequency and low amperage produced highest output but it also leached iron out of the stainless steel and sludged up the cylindrical cells with brown yuck. Not good. But I can’t say with 100% confidence that this video was accurate as I wasn’t there. If there turns out to be no low current solution then yes perhaps the overheating problem can be cured circulating the water through a radiator with small electric fan, plus heat sink fins on the stainless steel container. It gets hot under the hood, maybe move the thing to the trunk with ducted vents to the outside. What about the water? What works best? Distilled with baking soda? Distilled with drain cleaner (I don’t like that idea). Come on guys, let’s do this like a man on a mission. keep trying hard, we’ve got a planet to save and some really really rich greedy civilization-ruining oil goons to put out of a job. Keep me posted, I will do the same. “stepping down off of my soap box, thank you. Now back to my busy ER - I’m volunteering”
TinkererPutterer Says:August 30th, 2008 at 1:57 am
Sorry, quick typo to fix: (no thing stuff, Ocean City, Maryland, local to the person in the video) should read (no special stuff, Ocean City, Maryland, local to the person in the video). Thanks :o)
Dave Says:September 6th, 2008 at 3:50 am
Hello! I have a 13 plate 304 stainless cell I made, it is 6 x 2 and the plates are .016 mm. I am running approximately 15 to 20 amps. I installed a basic electric fuel pump and a common trans cooler to keep the cell cool. It works great. The cell is producing mega gas, however I am concerned that the constant load will shorten my alternator and battery life. Is there a way to generate high HO, and draw less current, ideal would be about 3 to 4 amps. Please help.
Thanks, Dave
TinkererPutterer Says:October 7th, 2008 at 12:50 am
Dave, Until we get an answer to your question on lowering your current draw, if you have a beefy alternator (or switch to one) a high output alternator (160 Amp or whatever) should handle your 20 Amp load with ease and plenty of juice leftover. How are your plates arranged - PNPN etc.? Spacing 1/10th inch? Using only distilled water?
Mankind Says:October 7th, 2008 at 2:10 am
I’ve made several types of gens with bubblers. My problem comes when I try to run a vehicle with the output line connected to the intake. The vehicle performs worse or uses more gasoline. Is this because of the O2 sensor? What could I be doing wrong? Any help would be great,Thanks Don…..
anthiny pippin Says:October 12th, 2008 at 1:39 pm
hello guys wegsite is great have been learning alot just wanted to know is one grade of s.s. better then others there is alot of 304 grade here in ohio but as i have been looking there is not alot of 306.all the sites are saying that it is the best is that true?thanks in advance anthony
TinkererPutterer Says:October 14th, 2008 at 2:05 am
Mankind: From the what I have read and videos I’ve seen it appears the your output should go to a “T” and be sent to not only the intake but also the intake manifold. Check on some of those videos before you take my word for it. Some claimed it performed better after the MAP sensor rather than in front of it. Increased fuel consumption does sound like you need an EFIE device (Google EFIE) to adjust the voltage from the O2 sensor as you suggest. What can you tell us about your most successful (read that - highest output) bubbler? (Number of plates? Plates vs Spiral? Water only or water and electrolyte? Etc.) Come on, let’s put the hurt on those oil goons! Thanks.
anthony pippin Says:October 14th, 2008 at 9:45 pm
hey tinker>i am trying to run to a 85 chevy with a carb have u heard what the best way to run is to air cleaner or intake or both???any help would be greatly appriciated
TinkererPutterer Says:October 21st, 2008 at 9:01 pm
Anthony: I’m afraid I can’t be much help. I have seen where people have just introduced the HHO into the intake which makes me wonder what magic causes the physics of the Venturi principle to intelligently decrease the amount of gasoline drawn up and out of the carburetor’s jet as air and now HHO are passing by (make sense?). But they “claim” good things happen. Maybe the more combustible mix of air/HHO increases the RPM therefore allowing you to use less throttle, I don’t know. I have seen where a small engine’s carburetor was replaced with a gas valve - increase the HHO to increase RPM - problematic for us as we don’t want a pressure buildup of HHO. I’ve seen an adapter plate that is used between the intake manifold and the carburetor in a natural gas powered conversion. I cannot experiment to help with these answers as no one has answered me with the details of how to build the highest HHO producer (plates or spiral wires or concentric tubes? Water or baking soda+water? 12V 10-15 amps DC? 5VDC? 10KHz AC? 1.2GHz AC?) I don’t want to waste time and money building an inferior HHO producer I want to make a good one the first time then I will share my results with all! Let’s put a hurt on those oil goons!
anto Says:October 31st, 2008 at 12:55 am
hi my name anto, i would like to confirm that the electrolized hydrogen generator is consist of anode (positive) and kathode (negative), is that right? OK now which electrode produce HH gas, positive or negative? and which one will be corrotion? OK all frend this is my question, thanks a lot for your comment, best regards anto/ Jogjakarta, Indonesia.
anto Says:October 31st, 2008 at 1:10 am
hi Tinkerer,..i make hydrogen generator consist of kathode (negative) using SS spiral from wire 0,6mm diameter and 5Mtr long, anode using pipe 3/4 inc diameter and 10cm long, container using plastic jar 600ml volume, i test the HHO gas produce almost 600ml per minute is enough for my daihatsu 1,5 Ltr, i get 20% saving fuel for it. this is my comment, best regards anto
BA Says:January 6th, 2009 at 7:25 am
I can’t watch the videos because my connection is snail paced, but what I’m gathering from all this info and comments is that you could probably limit the current by juggling the area of the plates and the spacing of the plates as well as the mixture of electrolytic ingredients. I guess this would also result in changing the desired output of the generator. I’m going to start with a middle of the road design and see what the outcome is. Then I can decide whether or not I want to invest in building a square wave generator for the electrical circuit like in the Meyer design. You guys are helping to keep my interest peaked. BA…….
Agustin Acosta Says:January 22nd, 2009 at 5:18 pm
Even though I’ve known about HHO for a few years, it wasn’t until October that I got excited about it. I quickly built several designs, along with my own PWM Generator and quickly discovered that all of the HHO Generators would HEAT UP. A typical current draw would double within half an hour or less. I immediately knew that I would have to re-design my PWM Generator to accommodate the excessive current draw. I have since just laid out a new current-compensating PWM Power supply and they will be ready for the market in February or sooner. This will take care of just about everyone’s overheating issues. I also have my own version of HHO Generators that do not have those big bolts sticking out the sides or top. My design has a PCB inside of the HHO Generator with heavy-duty wires coming out the bottom.
TinkererPutterer Says:We have been taking massive amounts of data with numerous designs (2″ & 3″) and do not have to rely on anyone else’s data. We know how they act.
The PWMs will be available soon. Agustin Acosta, BSEE
I can be reached at 352-861-3582 during the day (Ocala, FL)
February 9th, 2009 at 3:33 am
Thanks Anto. 20% increase in mileage. So if you run 5 units will you no longer need gas?! By the way, to answer your first question: hydrogen gas will bubble up at the cathode, and oxygen will bubble at the anode. By now you’ve no doubt found out that we don’t aim to capture the gases seperately but we want to utilize both together. The Hydrogen as fuel and the Oxygen as oxidizer. Besides, it’s easier that way. :o)
To all: Another design I saw and liked had a long rod which was connected to the outside world on top but went to the bottom of the plates so that the connection to the plates was underwater, no chance of a spark due to a corroded or loose wire connection in an explosive environment.
Having to endure a few 5 degree nights here in the DC area we surely will have to address an anti-freezing agent into our designs so that those in cold climates can say “See ya!” to the oil goons.
Agustin: We applaud your efforts. Will you be sharing your info with the rest of us trying to save our planet or will you be selling it? Is the PCB inside the unit in the HHO environment? If so, won’t that lead to corrosion-related premature failures? So what kind of production numbers, liters per minute, are you seeing with your PWM’s and your “2 inch & 3 inch designs” with how many amps drawn?
Thank you
Duke of Earl Says:February 13th, 2009 at 9:31 pm
Great site. I have built three different generators. Blown up one bubbler and could not hear for about three hours, always use a flashback arrestor, and a good one! One generator was simply a stainless cooking pot, which was negative ground, from the center of the lid, hung on a 5/16 ss bolt was a series of discs, seperated by rubber intertube material, spaced by the 5/16 nut. I had 7 plates. The unit put out 1 1/2 liter per minute. It would take all that 6, six volt batterys had, and the amp gage stayed at 30 amps. In 30 min. it started boiling water, which reduced the amount of gas.
Duke of Earl Says:The second one was a pcs. of 3 in. PVC, with the standard cap, stainless bolts thru the top, it was attached to three acrilic circles with 1/16 holes drilled in rings 1/8 in. apart, there were over three hundred wires, all hooked pnpnp, concentrically. It produced 2 liter per min. at 15 amps. in 15 min. it boiled water. The best I have made is the same set up, the 3 in. pvc pipe, which is 22 in. long. It had stainless cylinders inside it, each 1/8 smaller than the next, p,neutral,negative,positive,neutral,negative, ending up with the smallest tube being 1/2 in. I finished it last winter, and only got to test it about 30 min. before it got so cold I could not go back in the shop, I plan on continueing in spring. I will use a pulse width modulator, only to control the heating problem. But with the full 36 volts, a conventional golfcart battery set up, I produced so much gas that testing it with the standard plastic 1 liter bottle upside down in a bucket of water was not sufficient, it filled the bottle before I could grab the watch and set the stop function, at which point it melted the wires connecting it to the unit. I will use the radiator funciton you all have mentioned, the recirculating water trap you mentioned and the pwm. I hope this dosn’t sound as crazy as it seems, but I truly would love to see us make the oil companys hurt. I plan on testing this device on my 1948 Chevy truck, which is carburator and points, no computers to mess with. See ya in the spring. Duke O Earl
February 13th, 2009 at 9:39 pm
I forgot to mention that I used distilled water with about 2 grams of Mary War Lye as the electrolite. Any more that that and it kills the batterys, or the GM alternator with a 10 horse gas motor driving it. Very little Lye, the smallest amount you can use. Also, on the one generator, I used Stainless Tig welding wire for the electrodes. Threading it was a real tuff and time consuming job, keeping them tight so they would not touch each other and creat a short, one real big head ache, I still have it but plan on using the cylinders.
Best of luck for all of us.